This tender cake is just right for that in-between season, when the summer's delicate tarts have passed, but it's not quite time for fall's heavily spiced breads.

4 bartlett pears
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 large eggs, beaten
1/3 cup whole milk
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325. Grease Bundt pan with butter or vegetable oil.

Grate pears using the large holes of a box grater, discarding cores. Place grated pears in a paper towel-lined colander to drain.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Continue cooking butter. It will foam, then the foaming will subside and the butter will begin to brown. Stir occasionally to prevent the milk solids from browning too quickly. Continue cooking until butter is golden brown. Remove from heat, and allow to cool slightly (but not solidify) while preparing the rest of the cake.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking soda, salt and spices. Add browned butter, eggs, milk and vanilla extract; stir until just moistened. Fold in pears. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out clean. Cool in pan for 10 minutes, then remove cake to cooling rack. Cool completely before serving.